A Long Easter Weekend Report

A few weeks ago, three of the other ELFs planned to spend Easter weekend visiting Ephesus. I wanted to join them, but then I had an unexpected, expensive, but very nice wedding. I debated for a long time over whether I should spend the money to fly out and meet them. E was very supportive of me going (although he was worried about sending his blonde, American wife out into the world without him), but I didn’t know if we should spend the money for me to vacation alone. Finally, I decided to bite the bullet and do it.

I flew into Izmir on Friday and took a train to Selçuk, which is about an hour away. As soon as I arrived, I honestly felt like I was in a different country. For me, Turkey is the east and Istanbul. But along the Aegean, the weather was warm, palm trees flourished, and I was pretty sure I was back in Mexico (or maybe Las Vegas). I couldn't believe it was really Turkey.

I met up with one ELF soon after arriving (another came later that night and a third the next day). We wandered around Selçuk, which is not very big, and I just enjoyed the weather. The next morning we headed out to Efes (Ephesus—you may recall the Apostle Paul writing epistles to the Ephesians).

The Library

At least the vendors are honest!

Even though it was only the first week of April, the ruins were covered with tourists—including a lovely group from Asia that performed an impromptu song and dance routine in an ancient theater.

The ruins were nice, but it was hot (I got seriously burned) and crowded, and I confess I enjoyed the spring landscape more than anything. I couldn’t believe that somewhere in the world, flowers are actually growing.

When we got back to town, we headed to a huge bazaar. Again, I was overwhelmed by the vegetation. I couldn’t comprehend all the fruits, vegetables, nuts, and animals for sale. I started feeling very deprived in my cold corner of the world where we can only get potatoes, carrots, and apples (okay, a bit of an exaggeration).


Because it was Easter weekend, we followed up the bazaar with a trip to St. John’s Basilica. I never realized that John (author of The Book of Revelation) is buried in Selçuk, Turkey. (There is also a house that some (i.e., a German nun) claim Mary lived in. I wanted to see it, but it was off the beaten path and an expensive taxi ride that we decided not to go for.)


Our final stop of the day was the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In reality, only one pillar still stands.

It was very disappointing for a wonder, and I enjoyed the things we saw along the way much better:

a mosque in renovation;

scary, scary pink exercise equipment on the sidewalk;

and a few chickens.

The next day, Easter, I went to a carpet shop with one of the ELFs. The man who worked there immediately recognized me from the day before. “I was yelling out to you,” he said, “but you ignored me.” Of course I ignored him. I don’t talk to strange men when I am walking in a strange city.

Our next stop was Şirince, a village outside of Selçuk. At first, it seemed idyllic, maybe even like a Swiss village, but in reality it was a very crowded tourist trap.

In fact, a Turk suggested we visit the local Orthodox Church because it was Easter. We thought it was a great idea. Imagine our disappointment when we discovered an old, abandoned church with the faces on all the icons scratched out. At least we tried to celebrate Easter (we did eat a kinder surprise, so maybe that counts).

That night we bused it to Denizli where one of the ELFs works. Again, I was tragically disappointed. I live in a 430 square-foot apartment meant for students. It is old and dirty. I have old furniture (which I pillaged from other apartments), and my shower is just a drain in the floor. The ELF in Denizli lives in a newly-renovated palace. The apartment has three bedrooms, three bathrooms, all new furniture, and my entire apartment can fit into her living room. Maybe it is better for me not to travel so I don’t see how the rest of the country lives.

The next day, we went out to Pamukkale to Hierapolis and the travertines. It was interesting to see the tombs, and the travertines were. Again, it was super hot, and again, I got a super sunburn. We walked down the travertines, barefoot, in the hot springs (but I discovered I have the wimpiest feet ever because it killed my feet!).



The next morning, I woke up at 4 am to head back to Erzurum. I took a bus to the airport, flew to Ankara, and then to Erzurum. I immediately went to work where I had lessons until 9 pm.

The trip was exhausting, and I confess I really missed my husband, but I enjoyed my time with the other ELFs and the opportunity to see another part of the country (the exact opposite part of the country).